Daves Diesel

Well it would look a bit silly calling it Dtsteams diesel wouldn't it.

Just to note that I have acquired a couple of Kyosho GX12 engines - one good one and the other for bits.
I was looking for a complete working nitro car, on the grounds that it would have all the bits connected the right way round, but they don't seem to come cheap so I'll start with the engine and work my way up.

I was going to chip in a couple of playmobil blocks from my fast swindling stash, but I've found some MDC/Roundhouse motor units. Their greatest failings were brass wheels and lousy pickups, so this project could be a good home for them.

Anyway, this is my opening post to say that bit gathering is underway !

Looking forward to seeing this develop. Sounds like it's going to be an impressive bogie loco.

Let us know if you need any bits or specific help.

Welcome to the madness that is diesel traction.

(I can help with the maths...)

regards

ralph

...another one over to the dark side.....

Excellent
Everyone else has done the legwork on this one but if I can help in any way,just ask
(I was thinking about sticking it in the pantograph car just to wind up the purists )

A PANTOGRAPH CAR !

You go off grid for a week and look what happens !

Now, if you happened to have a Standard lying around, there is a precendent

The engines turned up and i've been picking up the other bits and pieces. Sam has decalred this hobby month, so I'm going to get the rest of bits as fast I can.

I've been eyeing up an Aristocraft RDC I bought a few years ago. Its very loooong, but more importantly has an extruded aluminium body. My other idea was a Vicinal autorail, but as I don't know what I'm doing I would rather have the space in the RDC - we shall see.

PS They kindly started up Art 40 for me at the Antwerp museum many years ago, and the raucous din but this project to shame.

Well, the bits started to arrive this week, and the first sacrifice was identified - the Aristo RDC.

Apart from an aluminium bodyshell, its chassis appears to be built around a piece of 2mm steel. The roof has a couple of handy holes in it, so it should be possible to start it without removing the bodyshell.

Anyway, its had all its non-essential bits taken out tonight, and once I source a suitable gear for the BLDC motor I can make a start.

That's great Dave. That RDC adds a whole new dimension to live diesel.

What gears do you need/want?

Are you using the clutch on the Kyosho?
If so the standard bell has 13 teeth and is 'module 1' gear pitch.

dtsteam wrote:

I've been eyeing up an Aristocraft RDC I bought a few years ago. Its very loooong, but more importantly has an extruded aluminium body.

...no more R1 curves, eh?

The clutch is 13 tooth Carl, but the motor is an 850KV so I am debating whether I need to 'gear up', especially as there are two power trucks. I noted your post where you mentioned revving faster for two truck drive... anyway I'm going to lash up the 2 rail again, and take some voltage readings.

Bill, you're quite right. I'm a big fan of RDC's as they were a favourite with one of the old boys who got me started in the hobby, however its so big its in danger of becoming a shelf queen. This should give it a new lease of life. If it works out, I am tempted to re-style it as a sleazy South American railcar.

Dave, Both Troy and I have looked at this gear ratio thing...I'm sure he'll add some useful info when (if) he gets back from Holland....

On the 2 axle red thing (single USA trains bogie)
I started off with 13t on the clutch bell and 24t on the motor. This was a very smooth take up when the clutch bit but of course you had to rev up the engine to get the volts.

So I changed it and went the other way and put a 10t on the BLDC motor. Lots of volts at slow revs but not so smooth take up and the clutch tended to snatch. It helped changing the naff nylon type shoe with ally ones.

Now on the bogie machine I have 14t on the clutch bell and 15t on the motor (err...I think ). Take up is smooth (with carbon brushes...) but I need to rev up to bite then slacken off and the clutch still stays engaged. I need to learn how to drive it.

By accident we found that removing the clutch spring around the plates causes the them to bite quickly rather than waiting and losing 2 or 3K rpm.

I may do this. Troy has already I think.

To be honest I would try and leave the possibility of being able to change gear ratios, i.e. a variable mount for the motor.

The 810Kv means that 1 volt peak will make it turn 810rpm so if it's turning at 8100 rpm it should theoretically give out 10 volts so for our purposes the lower the Kv the better.
I measured this with meters and they are pretty damn efficient.

Have you got a gear supplier?

Not yet Carl, although I think Conrad may have something suitable. http://shop.conrad-uk.com/hobbies/modelling/technical-modelling/gear-wheels-cog-wheels/gears-module-1/

Yes.I've just got back.
Lot's of things...
There is no such thing as a weak beer in Holland
I think you will really need to get to the entire chassis Dave (once things get complicated)
Cogs...
Yes,but I can't remember at the moment.I'll count them tomorrow.
Chuck away the clutch spring.(but not too far in case I'm wrong )
T'was a good weekend.If Clive was there he would still be talking to the modelly people peeps.They were very good.

I didn't know Conrad's had English stuff.

There is this place too in the UK.

Blacksmith Products E bay
I got my last lot of gears and other RC stuff from them, 3 day service to France and very helpful.

I used Blacksmith's too.Very good.

Thanks guys - all advice duly noted. I think Conrad deliver out of their German warehouse judging by the fact that they wanted sick squid to post two gears.... I'll look at Blacksmiths instead.
Troy - once the body is off, there isn't much left ! The trouble is that the body keeps all the pastic bits in place, so I'm going to try and replace the 6 crucial self tappers with the QD fittings they use on some PC cases. I take your point, but if it stalls, its just nice to have the option of reaching the pull start without taking the body off. I fully expect that it will spend more time without the body than with !


Looking at the picture, theres oceans of room - I'm almost tempted to add a traction battery and a few switches and go for the ultimate hybrid - Live diesel, battery, 2 rail DC or DCC sir ? (I think we'll skip live overhead, stud contact, and outside third rail).
By the way, last week I discovered that RDC's have hydraulic transmission, but don't tell Ralph, 'cos I'm in enough trouble already without decorating the kitchen with transmission fluid.

It's going to look great

On the cog front here...

14 on the clutch housing
12 on the generator.

However,a point to note.This ratio did not work too well until I removed the spring from the clutch shoes.(allowing a far,far lower rev range)
I now have ally clutch shoes but everything is working so well I may use them on my next one.

Interesting project. Any progress?

Sadly not, Lorenz. Having said that, since my last post I have managed to:
Get all the bits
Fit the radio and its battery
Mount the engine & fuel tank
Mount the motor, although I might re-do that bit as I'm not happy its rock solid
Made the rectifier, reversing thingy & servo mount
I've stalled at the exhaust, and a little switch panel to switch between track,radio & battery, although me and a mate made a similar one a few weeks ago.
I did take Troys advice and stiffened up the floor of the model so the body is easier to remove.
I've probably gone as far as I can on the dining room table, so when it warms up a bit I'll move it into the garage and sort the exhaust out.

Thanks for your reply Dave. Pressing my thumbs that it'll warm up and you'll be able to continue in the garage.
Will follow the progress with interest.