Live Diesel-Mechanical 1/12th scale

I experienced a technical issue with the engine the other day.  The engine started running rough, fuel mix was spitting out through the carburettor, then the engine stalled.  Afterwards there was minimal compression.  I found the solution on this excellent forum: Model Flying - OS FS70 tappet problem

The engine runs fine again now, but I'm thinking with the way I use the engine that I need a breather in the rocker cover.

Merry Christmas!
Dave.

Looking at some video make me think that I should install a tank to take care of the waste coming out from the muffler.
I wish to avoid some polluant on the tracks.
.
For the moment, I am on the design of the locomotive, lack time to really start it yet.

Yes, a collection tank would be a good idea if you don't want any oil on the track at all.  With my old muffler the oil drain comes out at a much greater pressure that with the new one.  The drain could be aimed into the middle of the track mostly avoiding the rails.

Best wishes,
Dave.

dewintondave wrote:

....The engine runs fine again now, but I'm thinking with the way I use the engine that I need a breather in the rocker cover
Dave.

Hi Dave,

What do you mean with the way you use it? And how will this breather look like? Cut an opening in the cover?

Thx for your last answer. The 4 ( 8 ) holes seems to be a good idea. Have you fastened the tubes in the mufflerbox or just pushed it in?

Quote :

What do you mean with the way you use it? And how will this breather look like? Cut an opening in the cover?

Thx for your last answer. The 4 ( 8 ) holes seems to be a good idea. Have you fastened the tubes in the mufflerbox or just pushed it in?

Hi Lorenz.  My engine doesn't have a breather like aircraft engines do, I don't think it's meant to run at idle for so long.  I need to do some experimenting with a breather.

The tubes are soft-soldered in.  The exhaust stack piece is a push-fit in a soldered-in bush.

Best wishes,
Dave.

During the Christmas holidays I finalised the clutch mechanism.  There is now a lever in the cab.  The control rod passes through the silencer!





Best wishes,
Dave.

Hi Dave,

That's a really good idea.
In your last pic there's a hole in the clutch on the gearbox side. Is this a hex worm screw?

Tacbob wrote:

In your last pic there's a hole in the clutch on the gearbox side. Is this a hex worm screw?

Hi Lorenz,
Yes, it's a hex screw, there is another on the other side, they are retaining the driving pin which is quite a loose fit. 

Best wishes,
Dave.

Hi Dave,

Is there much slip on your clutch arrangement? Could you do me a favour please? Could you do some more pics of your clutch?

Tacbob wrote:

Is there much slip on your clutch arrangement? Could you do me a favour please? Could you do some more pics of your clutch?

Hi Lorenz,

No, I don't think there is much slip when the clutch is fully engaged.  And, it's not getting oily in operation.

Here are some pics and a short close-up video.







Best wishes,
Dave.

Hello Dave,

Many thx for the pics and the video. I always thought your clutch had a plane surface but it seems to be an inner and an outer cone. Am I right? That's really clever.

Really well built! I wish I were able to accomplish such an achievement!

Tacbob wrote:

Many thx for the pics and the video. I always thought your clutch had a plane surface but it seems to be an inner and an outer cone. Am I right? That's really clever.

Yes, there's a 10 cone on both flywheel and clutch.
 
Best wishes,
Dave

Hi Dave,

Many thanks.
You've got a mp.

A great run yesterday evening up and down a short section of the railway line.  For the first time I could stand back and watch the loco run with the clutch held in position.  With the head-on sunshine the exhaust smoke looked great and voluminous.  The loco was run in 2nd gear all the way, a scale 10 mph.


The engine was run without the rocker cover so I could see what was going on.  I'm giving the rocker gear a squirt of fuel, to oil it before each run now.


Someone on the above aircraft forum was not believing that 5000 rpm was still an idling speed, but, it is for R/C car engines.  Here is the throttle position with the engine actually running, it won't run any slower.



During the run.


1:30 video of the run once up and down the line at 10 mph


Best wishes,
Dave.

Hi Dave,

She runs really nice. It's a pleasure to watch.

Hi Dave,

Is the flywheel calculated or just estimated to fit to the engine?

Thank you Lorenz. 

The flywheel is 38 mm diameter, as big as I could fit between the wheels.  The clutch is going very well, there's very little pressure exerted by the lever, the steel grips nicely.  It's difficult engaging the clutch slowly in reverse as the loco moving backwards hastens the engagement.

Best wishes,
Dave

The roof was easier to form than I thought it would be.



I'm starting to think about painting the loco.  Last week I test painted the exhaust stack with automotive spray paint intended for painting engine blocks.  I "stoved" it in the oven for one hour at 115 degC, then left it to cool overnight.  Before and after that I had been baking it in the summer sun all day.  I ran the loco this morning to test the paint, it survived ok.  With my arrangement mainly water like droplets come out of the exhaust.  I think I'll apply some sort of wax to the horizontal surfaces where these droplets strike.

Best wishes,
Dave.

Hi Dave,

Really nice roofing. Looks good in completion with the bonnet. Do you have a bending device? How will you fasten the roof.

Tacbob wrote:

Really nice roofing. Looks good in completion with the bonnet. Do you have a bending device? How will you fasten the roof.

Thank you Lorenz.  I used some 25mm diameter bar to bend the ends around - set-up in the bench vice.

I think I will use some brass angle to position it, but keep it unattached so I can lift it right off.

Best wishes,
Dave.

Hi Dave

What material are you using to buit it, there's some brass, the rest is metal but what type and some screwed looks made of inox and some not ?

Bearcastle wrote:

What material are you using to buit it, there's some brass, the rest is metal but what type and some screwed looks made of inox and some not ?

Hi Bearcastle,  The loco is nearly all plain mild steel.  The bodywork is 0.6mm cold rolled mild steel sheet.  I'm using brass round head screws on the cab.  The chassis screws are all going to be the stainless steel M3 mushroom head cap screws that you can see.  These were bought on ebay from China - postage free.

Best wishes,
Dave.

Hi Dave,

Could you tell me the other dimensions of your clutch please? What means "a 10 cone"?

Tacbob wrote:

Could you tell me the other dimensions of your clutch please? What means "a 10 cone"?

Hi Lorenz, I saw that you had a lathe in the background of one of your projects pictures

Each clutch piece is 14 mm thick.  The cone is 10 degrees (lathe topslide set to 10 degrees).  The flywheel is bored to suit the engine.  The moveable clutch piece is reamed 10mm ID and has a short piece of 10mm diameter silver steel loctited in place which is reamed 6mm ID to slide on the main gearbox shaft.  The 10mm OD is for a pair of front-to-front facing 15mm x 10mm flanged ball races.  The clutch actuator is bored 15mm ID and runs in the ball races to push and pull the clutch piece in and out of engagement.  The ball races are loctited in place.  The moveable clutch piece is drilled right through to take the driving pin that fits in a corresponding slot in the gearbox main shaft.



Best wishes,
Dave.

Hi Dave,

many thanks. You've seen right. That's why I was asking .