Chemin de fer Sud de Bretagne

Maybe the same name in the local language would be nice, with the local flag....

What the devil is it in Breton then?????

How about changing the description slightly.

Chemin de Fer de la Bretagne Sud

CFBS the same initials as a certain other metre gauge line.

South Brittany = Breizh Su (in Breton)

T.B.S : Tramgarr Breizh Su

Not sure it's really the right translation, but looks good, I use tramway instead of reseaux.

That doesn't bad but how about a bit more importance.


Kevredigezh Vroadel Hent-Houarn Breizh Su


That's the equivalent of SNCF well...... SNCBS, Sociéte Nationale du Chemin de Fer de la Sud Bretagne

Or maybe just HHBS

Hent-Houarn = Chemin de Fer.

That’s a mouth full Carl, but looks and sounds good.

While I was working this afternoon (in the beautiful sunshine) I was thinking perhaps it should be the 'Ever so Slow Chemin de fer' ESC, the time it is taking me, but then it never was a race.

The new alignment of the track by the canal, lets hope it is a bit smother.

The first day of summer I think today 22 here in Brittany.
I have dug the channel for the ballast all the way round for the outer circuit, a total distance of 44 meters, but can’t lay the entire track as I have run out of joining fishplates. I thought I had ordered some with the last lot of track, but alas no.
Is the post still getting through from the UK???

Not at the moment, not if it's going by air!

Saddletank wrote:

Not at the moment, not if it's going by air!

I heard that the post office were road transporting mail to the USA via Barcelona and flying it from there, they could drop a small packet off to me on the way.

I have got the channel dug and filled with ballast, the track laid in place but waiting more rail joiners.





The big job this year is to sort out the mess around and under the Bridge, not to mention building a bridge. Build the stream somehow and lay the rack railway down under the bridge over the stream and onto a terminus station.
It’s good to have dreams.

you're at the stage where progress should be a little faster now Peter. it was good seeing the early pics again on GSC!

mikey

Thanks Mikey, I am hoping it will look less like a building site as this year progresses and a bit more like a garden railway.
The poubelle in the foreground of the last photograph is to house the pump for circulating the water in the stream / canal. The pipes and conduits are for power and water.

I have had to build a temporary ceiling for the storage area as the birds are making nests and dropping all manner of things on the track. I need to get a few more posts though.



The engine shed is being re assembled after I tripped over it at the end of last year. I am trying to coum up with a better way of attatching the roof.

The Welsh cottage is still sitting on my workbench I must bite the bullet and get painting, in the instructions they suggest using a sponge with paint on to do the brickwork so as to leave the mortar lines visible.

I've used that technique Peter, just make sure you dont have too much paint on the sponge and use a very light touch! (I'd still use a variety of colours as it really brings out the texture)

mikey

Well I finally got the lid of the paints.

Progress so far:-



Perhaps I should have kept the lid on the paints……

Looks ok to me Peter. I would agree with Mikey, in that a bit of dry-brushing/dry-spongeing will help to break up the regimented look of the colour scheme. Also maybe finish the walls with a 'wash' of a thinned colour eg light grey or white?

Is this a kit, and if so who did you get it from please?

Well done Clive i didnt like to say! I think 'house' painting is all about texture. Drybrushing will give the stone some depth and take away the flat look. Having said that the colours you have used Peter look like the real thing! nice kit as well

mikey

The model kit is from railsidemodels.co.uk their BO 57 Railwayman’s / Welsh Farm Cottage.
It appears to be quite a solid model when constructed; I have stuck it together with car body filler, (what it appears to be made of, hence my idea of doing the coble stones out of the same filler)
I have used ‘Revell’ paints 69p a small tin from Trago mills, local model shop wanted 2.40 € for the same sized tin.
Dry brushing???? Its wet paint…….

Peter I hate coming over as a knowall but on this occasion!...Find yourself a short bristled brush (even cutting an old one down to 1/4 inch if necc. Have a piece of newspaper by the model, dip your brush in one of the following; different shade of grey to the original, yellow, and black. Wipe your brush on the paper to remove the majority of the paint. then brush whats left on the stone using a 'stippling' action. You cant hurry this...when you've done all the stones repeat with all the different colours. finally to tone everything down give it a thin wash all over ( I save all the water that i've washed my brushes in for this purpose). Old stone has a nice natural weathered aspect which shows up all the different chemicals that are present in the stone and that is the effect you are after. Good Luck,,, oh and then do a similar thing to the wood!

Mikey

May I suggest not 'stippling' which to me makes it sound like forward poking with the bristles. This will help get the paint down into the cracks which is the opposite of the effect you want. The aim should be to wipe the almost dry brush lightly across the grain of the model so the paint catches lightly on the most raised parts.

Also try to have the brush almost completely dry. If you dab it on your hand and paint comes off, its still too wet; wipe some more off on a bit of newspaper or an old rag.

http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/tnt1/001-100/TnT087_Drybrushing_Bamford/TnT087.htm

The example given is obviously a piece of work requiring very fine detail hence the author recommends a high quality brush, in our garden scales a more crude bigger brush is fine as Mikey suggested.

Before you dry brush I would suggest 'wetbrushing' or 'washing' which is to paint a very very thin dilute dark colour such as a dirty grey or brown all over the model. The capillary action takes the watered down paint deep into the mortar lines and gives the model an instant 3D effect. As with all models, practice on a piece of scrap material first if you have some.

I use acrylics and white spirit.

Here's some drybrushing on a cliff face made up of expanded polystyrene blocks coated with plaster:

http://www.atomic-album.com/showPic.php/22426/BranchStationCliffs.jpg

And on the tunnel mouth and rocky hillside in the background:

http://www.atomic-album.com/showPic.php/22426/Canal_Wharf_2009-07-13_04_edit.JPG

Sounds complicated Mikey; you probably need to be a bit of an artist for all that. I am straight lines, paint out of the tin man myself, I was never any good at sketching but ok with 3D isometric drawings. You would never think I went to Birmingham Art School, but then it was their School of Furniture.
I think you will have to run a texture painting course when and if you ever visit my railway.

Really not difficult Peter. Maybe practise on a spare bit of wood or plastic first.
Although its a matter of personal preference I dont like the wiping method as it tends to carry the colour across the stone in the same direction. when I stipple ,or dab, I change the direction of the brush and do each individual stone so it doesnt go into the mortar. The whole effect isnt gained until the wash is put on. If I'm doing a 'crepi' or 'stucco' effect then obviously its not neccesary to be so particular!. Hey you certainly dont need to be an artist for these various techniques!

mikey

You wipe in various directions until you get the effect you're seeking, or - if it is all in one direction, do it in the direction of gravity on the model, that way it can look like stains from dirt washed down by the rain.

And yes, as Mikey says, you can be quite robust with your work in these scales. I painted 4mm/ft military models for years and I've found that in garden railways scales things are a lot more forgiving.