RC/battery for LGB Stainz. Some advice anyone?

This is R/C the system I use http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/satr/2point4GHz.htm

It is simple, generic, cheap and suits my purpose very well. 
After talking to the R/C model guys at work they agree that for a simple system it is probably the best value for money.

I never did like tying myself to a specific format of transmitter (eg DM2) where you have limited options.

Thanks for this inetresting link. I agree taht being tied up to a specific brand is not comfortable. Thait is why I shall not by the railboss 4 system that  needs a specific transmitter (furthermore, as said above I don't like the ergonomy). I prefer, though it's less compact to have a separte receiver and ESC.

Try the stuff from Hobby King, they now have a Euro depot in the NL

hello Brian!

I bought my Hitec system a bit too soon and I discovered Hobbyking later. Apart from price, they have some advantages: it is easier to find parts (to a certain extend) and some (potentiometers fgor instance are more basic; sub-systems are linked by connectors and not welded as on Hitec. Therefore they are easier to adapt.
I have bought one servo, cables and batteries by Hobbyking: they have a large choice at very comlpetitive prices. Just a minor problem: UK and EU warehouses miss some products.

For some components from Hobbyking, I look at the International warehouse if they are not in the Aust one.

I am experimenting with a reversing switch controlled by a picaxe microcontroller to replace the bulky servo/toggle switch combination that I am using at the present.  It should fit into a Stainz better.

By the way, you seem to have very competent people overthere in NSW. I bought two R/C triggers from RCS and I look forward buying a Mylocosound. Both from NSW dealers.
For the Mylocosound I wait for some potential evolution of the sounds library. I don't care too much about the "all aboard" and bell sound that are useless for european models except maybe for some British models (but has Britain vere really belonged to Europe?!?). I would rather like the brakes hisses and air compressor noise. I read from them something is in the air.

Saint-Oblas wrote:

I also used the syren10 from dimension engineering. Very easy setup and plug&play device. I did not programed advanced functions though I bought the USB connector for that. Did you.
I also bought for an other project a Pololu board having roughly the same functions. A little smaller but not quite as easy to use though the programing can be done through an integrated miniUSB plug without additionnal equipment.
For other on/off devices (lights, etc.), I first used a small servo with a contactor, until I found R/C switches. I tried the Pololu but programing them is a nightmare: after several trials, I have succeeded reprograming them. Therfore I recently decided to replace them with R/C switches provided by one of your co-citizen, Tony Walsham from RCS. I have not received them yet.
I agree that from two Stainz, a Garret type loco would be easier and more realistic than a Mallet, because fro the later, the distance between axles is too big. But I chose Mallet since in France there were quite a few and I never heard of Garret type locos on our tracks.

I have now bought a Pololu 18V7 board for my Consolidation and have got a "Graphene" 4S 4000mAhr  LiPo battery tp be fitted.  I found that my usual Hobby King R/C with 10 NiMh 23700 MAHr batteries combo just did not give me the running time, mostly battery capacity that was the issue.
I have a Mylocosound card installed into it as well and have disabled all the "bells and whistles because I found them just plain annoying.
I still have to get and install a sound card into my Bachmann 3 truck shay.  I have removed the firebox/ash pan flicker board and will fit an oval speaker on the sound card in its place.  I think that the sound coming from right behind the steam motor should add some realism.
All this will happen but not straight away as work is getting in the road of my hobby.